Rajesh Neupane Written By: Rajesh Neupane
Published On : 10th July, 2024

How to obtain Island Peak Climbing Permit?

Island Peak to the south of Everest is the summit standing at 6,189 metres. This mountain was renamed and is now locally known as Imja Tse. When you stand at 6,189 metres above sea level, the view from the peak just looks like an island surrounded by a sea of ice with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse. 

The Island peak climbing plan begins in the same way as the Everest base camp trip. The trail to the peak is pretty much straightforward and the trek is amongst the most affordable ones compared to trek to other peaks. 

Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary nicknamed the peak Island Peak before the 1953 Mount Everest Expedition as their training peak. Many Nepalese mountaineers start off their mountaineering journey by climbing this great peak. 

Having a high degree of physical fitness and some sort of technical climbing knowledge are necessary while trying to climb Island Peak. This journey will test you and prepare you for the journey to the other peaks higher than the Island Peak.

Permits & Their Cost

The Nepal Mountaineering Association classifies Island Peak as a Group B trekking peak. It requires a climbing and trekking permit, along with a few local permits. Acquiring these permits is a simple process yet a necessary one if you want to be on the climb to Island Peak.

While being on the Island Peak Expedition, you are expected to have the permits mentioned below.

  1. (Nepal Mountaineering Association) NMA Permit.
  2. Sagarmatha National Park Entry.
  3. Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit.
  4. Gaurishankar Conservation Area Entry.

Cost Break down

Permits Cost/Pax
NMA Permit USD 250 (Spring Season)

USD 125 (Autumn Season)

Sagarmatha National Park Fee USD 30
Pasang Lhamu Municipality Entry Permit Fee USD 20
Gaurishankar Conservation Area Entry Fee USD 30

NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Permit

The NMA distinguishes climbing permits that can be obtained for various peaks in Nepal. Individual climbers cannot obtain an NMA permit, hence, it must be obtained by a government-registered local trekking agency. You can engage the agency to obtain the permit and plan and organize your Island Peak climb. The cost of this permit varies according to the season you intend to climb:

  • Spring – USD 250.
  • Autumn  – USD 125.
  • Winter – USD 70.
  • Summer – USD 70.

Garbage Deposit Cost

While on Island Peak Climbing, you will have to pay a garbage deposit that would cost you around 500 USD by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. This payment is for trash management in the Himalayas. The amount will be refunded to you after the completion of the journey according to the amount of disposal of the garbage you carry.

Local Area Permit

While on the journey to Island Peak through the Khumbu region you will need to obtain some local permits that mostly include entry fees through parks and isolated municipalities of the Himalayas. Such permit fees are taken for the development of infrastructure in such isolated areas. Major local permits are:

  • Sagarmatha National Park Permit Fee
  • Gaurishankar Conservation Area Entry Fee
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Municipality Permit Fee

Documents for Obtaining Permits

You must prepare the necessary paperwork to get the permits from the National Mountaineering Association. We provided the documents below so you can prepare for the scheduled time:

  • Passport-sized Photos

For the Island Peak permit, you need some passport-sized photos with clear face details in proper formatting sizes guided by NMA.

  • Photocopy of Passport

You will have to provide a photocopy of your passport as well as the original in order to get the permit. The passport valid date must be at least six months from the start of the trip.

  • Nepali currency (NPR)

To acquire some necessary permits, you would have to pay in Nepalese rupees so carrying some Nepali currency during the journey is essential.

  • Accurately filled Application Form

You are required to fill in the necessary information and correct details about yourself in the forms provided by NMA. Incorrect information and missing out few details in the form might cost you the permit. So please fill it out carefully.

  • Travel Insurance

Climbing peaks can be fatal sometimes especially in the Himalayas of Nepal, so having travel insurance is essential for such journeys. Some basic insurance policies we provide to foreign travelers summiting Island Peak are mentioned below:

  • Accidental Insurance
  • Medical Insurance
  • Rescue Insurance

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival at Tribhuwan National Airport, KTM

Day 02: Preparation Day, Kathmandu (1400m)

Day 03: Flight From Kathmandu to Lukla (2850m) & Hike to Phakding (2,650m)

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Day 05: Acclimating the Namche Bazaar (3440m)

Day 06: Trek to Tengboche (3,855m)

Day 07: Trek to Dingboche (4,360m)

Day 08: Trek to Chhukung (4735m)

Day 09: Acclimating the Chukung (4735m)

Day 10: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m)

Day 11: Trek to Island Peak (6,183m) & Return Trek to Chukung (4735m)

Day 12: Trek  to Tengboche (3,870m)

Day 13: Trek  to Namche (3440m)

Day 14: Trek  to Lukla (2850m)

Day 15: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu (1,400m)

Day 16: Departure from Tribhuwan International Airport, KTM

 

Essential Steps to Acquire Permits

To acquire the necessary permits to the Island Peak, contact to local government-registered travel agency, one like ours will be required. We will assist you through the generally straightforward process. The essential steps we will be guiding are:

  1. The application form from the Nepal Mountaineering Association will be provided.
  2. The form is to be filled with the necessary information with passport-sized photographs.
  3. Submit the form with a copy of your passport.
  4. The passport and information on the application form will be seemingly verified.
  5. Travel insurance with helicopter rescue in case of emergency is to be applied.
  6. Proof of return flight and confirmation of the trip.
  7. Provide you with sufficient Nepalese currency for the payment of the permit.

FAQS

Normally what is the cost for permits to Island Peak Climbing?

The cost usually varies from 150 to 350 USD for all the permits to the Island Peak including Local permit Costs from season to season. It doesn’t include the Garbage Deposit fee which is 500 USD as it is refundable at the end of the trip. 

Do I get a Local Area Permit for Island Peak in Kathmandu?

The Local Area Permit needs to be acquired after you reach to Sagarmatha region or Lukla. It is also inapplicable in Kathmandu or anywhere except for the Sagarmatha region.

Do I need insurance coverage for Island Peak Climbing?

Travel and health insurance are advised since they can cover not only expenses but also reimbursement in the event of cancelled bookings or date changes due to unexpected events.

Do I need a travel agency while summiting the Island Peak?

Yes, of course. NMA doesn’t provide permits for Island Peak Climbing to individual climbers. It requires a government-registered local travel agency, one like ours to provide the necessary permits and other coverages to the climbers through NMA

How much luggage is adequate for Island Peak Climbing?

The luggage limit per trekker is  9 Kg. Usually, the trekkers carry around 6-7 kg of luggage during the trip for a smooth trekking experience and to avoid altitude sickness due to difficulty in climbing.

 

Conclusion

Island peak climbing is an unforgettable journey to the peak with an easy-going trail since a great time from Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s journey to Everest. It is an amazing chance for you to strengthen your mountaineering skills.

Obtaining the permits is pretty straightforward and we will assist you with all the necessary documents. We will guide you through every step of your journey and the paperwork required. We also assure you of quality service and safety for the proper experience of summiting Nepal’s one of the finest climbs, Island Peak Climb.

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