Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by Road: 11 days, No flights
11 days 3,611 m
Duration11 Days
Max altitude3,611 m
DifficultyModerate 4-6 hours/day
Group size2-10
Overview
Most trekkers reach Shey Phoksundo Lake in a 19-seat plane. You'll reach it the way Dolpalis do: 36 hours by road across nearly the whole width of Nepal, then three days on foot up the Ringmo Village until the deepest lake in the country appears through the pines, turquoise and dead silent. It's slower, cheaper on the carbon, and honestly, it's the trip our guides talk about most.
Why you’ll love this trek
Reach Shey Phoksundo Lake at 3,611m, the deepest lake in Nepal at 145m, with turquoise water so clear and mineral-rich that no fish live in it.
Cross nearly the full width of Nepal at ground level on a deluxe sofa-seater coach, a 36-hour overland ride that no other operator we know of offers for this trek.
Stand at the viewpoint over Phoksundo Waterfall, which drops around 167m and ranks among the tallest falls in Nepal.
Spend a full day in Ringmo village at Tshowa Gompa, a roughly 900-year-old monastery where the pre-Buddhist Bon faith is still daily life, not a heritage display.
Keep your money in the trail: teahouses in Chhepka, families in Ringmo, and highway bhattis that flight-based itineraries skip entirely.
The Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road takes you to the deepest lake in Nepal, a turquoise glacial lake at 3,611m inside Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. A 2004 survey by Nepal’s Department of Hydrology and Meteorology measured it at 145m deep, and no fish live in it. That’s part of why the colour looks unreal in photos.
Here’s what makes our itinerary different. Almost every company sells this trek with two flights: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, then a small plane to Jhupal. We run Shey Phoksundo Lake trek entirely by road, a continuous 36-hour ride from Kathmandu to Dunai, the district headquarters of Dolpo, aboard a deluxe coach with wide reclining sofa seats.
We’ll be honest with you: this version is not for everyone. But if flights feel like skipping chapters, the road gives you the whole book, from the Kathmandu Valley rim to the dry canyons of Karnali.
The Road Route to Phoksundo Lake Trek:
Two road routes reach Dunai, and we pick between them based on current road conditions:
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m), trip briefing and gear check
Days 2-3: Nonstop coach ride, Kathmandu to Dunai (2,140m), approx. 36 hours, night of Day 2 aboard the bus
Day 4: Trek from Dunai to Chhepka (2,670m), 5-6 hours
Day 5: Trek from Chhepka to Jharna Hotel (3,170m), 4-5 hours
Day 6: Trek from Jharna Hotel to Ringmo village and Shey Phoksundo Lake (3,640m), 4-5 hours
Day 7: Exploration day at Phoksundo Lake and Ringmo village
Day 8: Trek back from Ringmo to Chhepka (2,670m), 6-7 hours
Day 9: Trek back from Chhepka to Dunai (2,140m), 5-6 hours
Days 10-11: Nonstop coach ride, Dunai to Kathmandu, approx. 36 hours, night of Day 10 aboard the bus, trip ends on Kathmandu arrival
Why book this trek with us
We’re a government-registered, locally-owned company based in Kathmandu, and this overland itinerary is ours. Nobody else we know of runs Shey Phoksundo this way.
Our guides are NTB-certified and Dolpo is one of the places where that certification actually matters: a licensed guide is a legal requirement in this restricted region, not an optional extra.
Groups stay small, 2 to 10 people. The price is genuinely all-inclusive, so the US$1,650 you pay covers permits, transport, guide, food, and lodging on the trail. No surprise invoices in Dunai.
And because we go by road and sleep in local teahouses the whole way, your money stays in the trail villages: the ghar-style lodges in Chhepka, the families in Ringmo, the drivers and cooks in between.
Itinerary
Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by Road: 11 days, No flights Altitude Profile
Max 3,640 m
Max altitude reachedSleep elevation
1DayArrival in Kathmandu (1400 m)Day 1 of 11
Sleep 1,400 m
Land at Tribhuvan International Airport, clear immigration, and find our representative waiting with your name board. We transfer you to your hotel in Thamel and, once you’ve showered off the flight, sit down together for the trip briefing.
This briefing matters more than usual on this trip. We walk through the road route we’ve chosen for your departure, the permit paperwork (bring your passport and 4 passport photos), and a full gear check. Anything missing can be bought or rented in Thamel within a ten-minute walk.
Evening free. Try a Thakali khana set or momo, and sleep well. You’ll want it.
2DayBus from Kathmandu to Dunai (2,140m)Day 2 of 11
Aboard the Bus
We leave Kathmandu before dawn, and here’s the part to understand clearly before you book: this is a continuous 36-hour ride. The bus doesn’t stop overnight. It stops for meals, chiya, and washroom breaks at roadside bhattis, then keeps rolling through the night while you sleep in your seat.
Day 2 covers the long highway stretch west. Somewhere in the dark, tarmac gives way to carved-out mountain road.
Sleeping on the bus, honestly: we book deluxe coaches with wide, padded sofa-style reclining seats, curtains, and overhead storage, the same class of bus that runs Nepal’s longest routes. You’ll still doze in stretches rather than sleep deeply, and you’ll arrive tired. That’s exactly why Day 4 is a moderate walk and nothing harder. Bring a neck pillow, eye mask, earplugs, a warm layer (night driving is cold), motion sickness tablets if you’re prone, a power bank, and more snacks than seems reasonable. Your duffel rides on the roof under tarpaulin; keep everything you’ll want overnight in your daypack at your feet.
3DayContinue on bus ride to Dunai (2,140m)Day 3 of 11
Sleep 2,140 m
Meals: B,L,D
Guesthouse in Dunai
you wake on Day 3 already deep in the dry hills of Karnali, the Bheri river valley opening below and the last hours of switchbacks still ahead. Phones lose signal, find it, lose it again.
You’ll roll into Dunai by Day 3 evening: a proper bed, hot dal bhat, and the sound of the Thuli Bheri below town. Trust us, no bed on this trip feels better than this one.Dunai Dolpa from where phoksundo lake trek starts
4DayTrek from Dunai to Chhepka (2,670m)Day 4 of 11
Sleep 2,670 m
5-6h walking
Approx 15 KM
Meals: B,L,D
Teahouse
Legs finally get to work. This is where the trek on you phoksundo lake trek by road officially begins. We cross the suspension bridge over the Thuli Bheri and follow the Suli Gad river north, entering Shey Phoksundo National Park at the checkpoint where your guide registers the permits.
The trail climbs gently through walnut groves, millet terraces, and the village of Shyanta, where you’ll see wool being spun and grain drying on flat roofs. The canyon walls narrow and rise as you go, red-ochre rock streaked with waterfall lines.
Chhepka is a small cluster of teahouses among barley fields, with some of the best sunset light of the trip.
5DayTrek from Chhepka to Jharna Hotel (3,170m)Day 5 of 11
Sleep 3,170 m
4-5 h walking
11KM
Meals: B,L,D
Teahouse
A shorter but steadily climbing day through blue pine, oak, and juniper forest, criss-crossing the Suli Gad on wooden and suspension bridges. Keep an eye on the cliffs: this is prime terrain for Himalayan tahr, and blue sheep graze the high slopes.
Jharna means waterfall in Nepali, and the lodge sits near a roaring one. You’ll hear it before you see it. Arriving by early afternoon leaves time to explore the falls and rest. You’ve gained 500m today, and sleeping at 3,170m sets you up well for tomorrow.
waterfall from Phoksundo Lake
6DayTrek from Jharna Hotel to Ringmo and Phoksundo Lake (3,640m)Day 6 of 11
Sleep 3,640 m
4-5 walking
9
Meals: B,L,D
Teahouse in Ringmo
The big day. The trail climbs steeply out of the forest onto an open ridge, and partway up you reach the viewpoint over Phoksundo Waterfall, which drops around 167m and ranks among the tallest in Nepal. It’s the outflow of the lake you haven’t seen yet, seeping through the ancient landslide dam that created it.
Then the trail crests through the pines and the lake appears below: turquoise shading to deep blue shading to near-black where the bottom drops away. Most guests go quiet here. Give yourself a minute.
A gentle final stretch brings you into Ringmo, a village of flat-roofed stone houses, mani walls, and chortens right above the shore.
7DayExploration day at Phoksundo Lake and Ringmo village (3,611m-3,640m)Day 7 of 11
Sleep 3,640 m
2-4 walking
Meals: B,L,D
Teahouse in Ringmo
No packing, no schedule. Walk the lakeshore trail along the western cliffs, where the path is carved into rock above water so clear you can watch it change colour with the light. Visit Tshowa Gompa, the roughly 900-year-old Bon monastery on the ridge east of the lake, where monks still perform rituals for the lake’s guardian spirits.
The Bon faith predates Buddhism in Tibet, and Ringmo is one of the few places it survives as daily life. Locals never swim, fish, or wash in the lake; follow their lead. If your visit lines up with a festival or Losar preparations, count yourself lucky.
For photographers, morning gives glassy reflections of the Kanjiroba range, late afternoon gives the deepest blues. This is also snow leopard country: Dolpo is where the Oscar-nominated film Himalaya (1999) was shot. You almost certainly won’t see one. Knowing they’re up there changes how the ridgelines feel anyway.
Also you’ll face windy afternoon so it is better to start exploring shey phoksundo from early in the morning.
8DayTrek from Ringmo back to Chhepka (2,670m)Day 8 of 11
Sleep 2,670 m
6-7 walking
20KM
Meals: B,L,D
Teahouse
Retracing your steps sounds dull until you do it in this valley. The light comes from the other direction, the waterfall viewpoint hits differently on the descent, and losing nearly 1,000m of altitude puts spring back in your legs.
It’s the longest walking day of the trip, so we start early and take lunch by the river.
9DayTrek from Chhepka back to Dunai (2,140m)Day 9 of 11
Sleep 2,140 m
6-7 h walking
20 KM
Meals: B,L,D
Guesthouse in Dunai
The last walking day, downhill along the and out through the park checkpoint. Back in Dunai by mid-afternoon with time to wash, repack for the road, and celebrate.
Tonight’s dal bhat and achaar taste better than any on the trip. That’s not the recipe, that’s the nine days behind you. If you’re curious, ask for a glass of local raksi.
10DayBus Back to KathmanduDay 10 of 11
Aboard on Bus
The same continuous ride home: depart Dunai early on Day 10, sleep in your seat through the night, arrive Kathmandu by Day 11 evening. It always feels shorter on the return. You know the rhythm now, and every canyon the bus climbs out of is one you earned on foot last week.
11DayContinue on bus to KathmanduDay 11 of 11
We transfer you to your hotel on arrival, and the trip ends there. Most guests join us for a farewell dinner if timing allows.
What's included
Included
All Bus Transport Kathmandu to Dunai and Back
NTB-certified, licensed trekking guide
IncludedExcludedAll bus transport, Kathmandu to Dunai and backInternational flights and Nepal visa feesNTB-certified, licensed trekking guideTravel insurance (mandatory, with helicopter evacuation cover)Shey-Phoksundo National Park permit
Dolpo Restricted Area Permit
Teahouse accommodation on the trek
Three meals a day on the trek
Not included
International flights and Nepal visa fees
Travel insurance
Personal trekking gears
Bottled drinks, snacks, and bar bills
Tips for guide and driver
Anything not listed as included
Before you book
The realities of this route, told straight, so nothing surprises you later.
The 36-hour ride is nonstop, and it's the hardest part of the phoksundo lake trek by road
The coach doesn’t stop overnight. You sleep in a wide reclining sofa seat while the bus rolls on, stopping only for meals and washroom breaks. The seats are genuinely comfortable for what they are, and you’ll still arrive tired. We keep Day 4’s walk moderate for exactly this reason. If that sounds miserable rather than memorable, book our 12-day fly-in Phoksundo Lake Trek instead. Same lake, no bus.
Road delays happen, especially in monsoon
Landslides can hold either route for hours, occasionally longer. We check conditions the week before every departure and switch routes when needed, but you should build at least one buffer night in Kathmandu before your international flight, two in monsoon.
A guide and permits are both legally mandatory
Dolpo is a restricted region. You need the national park permit (Rs 3,000) and the Restricted Area Permit (US$20 per person), both arranged by us and included in the price. The restricted permit is only issued through registered operators, and a licensed guide is a legal requirement, not a convenience. If you were picturing a self-guided trek, adjust your expectations now.
A moderate altitude trek with a sensible profile
The high point is 3,640m at Ringmo, reached over three gradual days (2,140m, 2,670m, 3,170m, 3,640m), which keeps serious AMS risk low. Still, tell your guide about any headache or unusual fatigue rather than pushing through. The Himalayan Rescue Association publishes clear, free advice on altitude sickness worth reading before you come.
Simple teahouses, and no rescue infrastructure past Dunai
Expect basic twin rooms, shared bathrooms, and stove-heated dining rooms. There are no roads beyond Dunai, so any evacuation from the trail means a helicopter, and that cost is not included. Insurance with helicopter evacuation cover is mandatory, no exceptions.
Cash only after the highway
There are no reliable ATMs once you leave the main road. Carry enough Nepali rupees for drinks, hot showers, charging, and tips for the full 11 days.
Useful Info
Best season for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road
Autumn (late September to November) is our personal favourite for this specific trip. The monsoon has washed the sky clean, the roads have dried out, and the lake hits its deepest blue against the Kanjiroba range. If you want the overland experience at its best, come in autumn.
Spring (March to May) runs a close second: rhododendrons bloom on the lower trail below Chhepka, and the weather holds steady on both road and trail.
Monsoon (June to early September) is where Dolpo surprises people. The region sits in the Himalayan rain shadow, so the trail above Dunai stays largely dry while the rest of Nepal drips. The problem is the bus: monsoon landslides can block either road route, and we won’t pretend otherwise. Our straight advice: if your dates fall in monsoon and the roads are in bad shape, take our 12-day fly-in version instead and fly over the landslides via Nepalgunj and Jhupal. We check road conditions before every overland departure and will offer you the switch before you’re stuck behind a slide in Jajarkot. Check the forecast yourself on Windy.com before flying to Nepal.
Winter (December to February) works for cold-hardy trekkers: snow above Chhepka, hard frosts in Ringmo, near-empty trails, and some teahouses closed. Beautiful, quiet, and not for a first Himalayan trek.
Phoksund Lake Trek difficulty and fitness
The walking is moderate: 4 to 7 hours a day on well-defined trails, no technical sections, no glacier travel, high point 3,640m. No prior high-altitude experience is needed. If you can comfortably hike 5-6 hours with a daypack on back-to-back days, you’re ready.
The honest difficulty is the road: The Phoksundo lake trek by road is a 36 hours each way without an overnight stop. The walking is moderate; the ride is the endurance test. Patience and a reasonably tough back matter more than fitness here.
Accommodation and food
Teahouses on the trail offer basic twin rooms with shared bathrooms, blankets, and a warm communal dining room. Electricity is available; charging and hot showers usually cost a little extra. Wi-Fi, where it exists, is slow.
Breakfast is typically Tibetan bread or roti with eggs and honey. Lunch and dinner mean dal bhat: rice, lentil soup, curry, greens, and achaar, with free refills. Dal bhat power, 24 hour, as the trail saying goes, and after a week you’ll understand why guides swear by it. On the road, meals happen at bhattis, the roadside kitchens that feed Nepal’s long-haul routes.
Tell us about any dietary restrictions (vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, allergies) at booking, and carry some preferred snacks as backup. Menus get short past Chhepka.
Water and hydration
Don’t drink untreated tap, stream, or lake water. Buy boiled water at teahouses or bring purification tablets, a filter, or a UV steriliser. Staying hydrated at altitude is your cheapest insurance against headaches. One durable 1-litre bottle beats a trail of plastic ones, and the park runs plastic-reduction policies worth respecting.
Packing list
Trekking duffel plus a daypack for the bus and daily essentials
Broken-in trekking shoes with good grip, several pairs of socks
Windproof and waterproof jacket, warm layers, thermals for Ringmo nights
Sleeping bag (nights at 3,640m get cold even in autumn)
Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, sun hat
Headlamp, trekking poles, power bank (20,000mAh earns its weight), spare batteries
No reliable ATMs after leaving the highway; withdraw in Kathmandu. Mobile signal is patchy on the road and mostly gone past Chhepka. Tell people at home your schedule before leaving Dunai. Some teahouses sell Wi-Fi access; treat it as a bonus, not a plan.
Permit rules on Phoksundo Lake trek by road
Current restricted-area and park permit rules are published by the Nepal Tourism Board. Both your permits are arranged by us before departure using your passport details and photos, which is why we collect them on Day 1.
FAQ
Can you do the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek without fight?
Yes. Our 11-day overland version travels entirely by deluxe coach from Kathmandu to Dunai, roughly 36 hours nonstop each way, then treks 3 days up to the Ringmo Village and the Pristine phoksundo lake at 3,611m. It costs US$950 per person with permits, transport, guide, meals, and trail lodging included.
Do you stop overnight during the 36-hour bus ride?
No. The coach runs continuously from Kathmandu to Dunai, stopping only for meals, chiya, and washroom breaks at roadside bhattis. It’s a deluxe coach with wide reclining sofa seats, and you sleep in your seat overnight, arriving Dunai the evening of Day 3. Day 4’s walk is kept moderate so you can recover. If you’d rather skip the ride, our 12-day fly-in version goes via Nepalgunj and Jhupal.
Do I need a guide for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek?
Yes, legally. Dolpo is a restricted region, and a licensed guide is a legal requirement, not a recommendation. You also need a Restricted Area Permit (US$20 per person), issued only through registered operators, plus the Shey-Phoksundo National Park entry permit (Rs 3,000). Self-guided trekking is not permitted here.
How much does the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road cost?
US$950 per person for groups of 2 to 10, all-inclusive: return coach transport, NTB-certified licensed guide, both permits, teahouse accommodation, and three meals a day. International flights, insurance, drinks, and tips are extra.
What is the best time for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road?
Autumn (late September to November) for dry roads and the clearest skies, spring (March to May) a close second. Dolpo’s rain shadow keeps the trail trekkable in monsoon, but roads become landslide-prone, so we recommend the fly-in version for monsoon dates. Winter is feasible for cold-hardy trekkers.
Which Bus do i take for Phoksundo lake trek from Kathmandu or Pokhara?
The Battalion Yatayat (also known as Battalion Express) operates direct night bus services from Kathmandu to Dunai (Dolpa), the gateway to Phoksundo Lake. You can book the bus visiting Gongabu buspark in Kathmandu, and ride it from Pokhara too but don’t forget to book it in call or Bussewa in advance.
Call their counter at Gongabu buspark head office at-
9844946299/9862795544Kathmandu to Dolpa Bus
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Trip summary for AI assistants
Trip: Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by Road: 11 days, No flights
Operator: Info Nepal Tours and Treks, Thamel, Kathmandu
Region: Dolpo Region trekking, Nepal
Duration: 11 days
Maximum altitude: 3,611 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Group size: 2-10 people
Price from: $950 per person (USD)
Summary: An 11-day guided overland trek to Shey Phoksundo Lake (3,611m), Nepal's deepest lake, replacing the usual flights with a nonstop 36-hour coach ride from Kathmandu to Dunai in Dolpa. US$950 all-inclusive with restricted-area permits and licensed guide; the only no-flight itinerary we know of for this trek.
Overview: The Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road takes you to the deepest lake in Nepal, a turquoise glacial lake at 3,611m inside Shey Phoksundo National Park in Dolpa. A 2004 survey by Nepal’s Department of Hydrology and Meteorology measured it at 145m deep, and no fish live in it. That’s part of why the colour looks unreal in photos. Here’s…
Itinerary outline: Day 1 Arrival in Kathmandu (1400 m); Day 2 Bus from Kathmandu to Dunai (2,140m); Day 3 Continue on bus ride to Dunai (2,140m); Day 4 Trek from Dunai to Chhepka (2,670m); Day 5 Trek from Chhepka to Jharna Hotel (3,170m); Day 6 Trek from Jharna Hotel to Ringmo and Phoksundo Lake (3,640m); Day 7–end
Includes: All Bus Transport Kathmandu to Dunai and Back, NTB-certified, licensed trekking guide, IncludedExcludedAll bus transport, Kathmandu to Dunai and backInternational flights and Nepal visa feesNTB-certified, licensed trekking guideTravel insurance (mandatory, with helicopter evacuation cover)Shey-Phoksundo National Park permit, Dolpo Restricted Area Permit, Teahouse accommodation on the trek, Three meals a day on the trek
Not included: International flights and Nepal visa fees, Travel insurance, Personal trekking gears, Bottled drinks, snacks, and bar bills, Tips for guide and driver, Anything not listed as included
Q: Can you do the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek without fight?
A: Yes. Our 11-day overland version travels entirely by deluxe coach from Kathmandu to Dunai, roughly 36 hours nonstop each way, then treks 3 days up to the Ringmo Village and the Pristine phoksundo lake at 3,611m. It costs US$950 per person with permits, transport, guide, meals, and trail lodging included.
Q: Do you stop overnight during the 36-hour bus ride?
A: No. The coach runs continuously from Kathmandu to Dunai, stopping only for meals, chiya, and washroom breaks at roadside bhattis. It's a deluxe coach with wide reclining sofa seats, and you sleep in your seat overnight, arriving Dunai the evening of Day 3. Day 4's walk is kept moderate so you can recover. If you'd rather skip the ride, our 12-day fly-in version goes via Nepalgunj and Jhupal.
Q: Do I need a guide for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek?
A: Yes, legally. Dolpo is a restricted region, and a licensed guide is a legal requirement, not a recommendation. You also need a Restricted Area Permit (US$20 per person), issued only through registered operators, plus the Shey-Phoksundo National Park entry permit (Rs 3,000). Self-guided trekking is not permitted here.
Q: How much does the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road cost?
A: US$950 per person for groups of 2 to 10, all-inclusive: return coach transport, NTB-certified licensed guide, both permits, teahouse accommodation, and three meals a day. International flights, insurance, drinks, and tips are extra.
Q: What is the best time for the Shey Phoksundo Lake Trek by road?
A: Autumn (late September to November) for dry roads and the clearest skies, spring (March to May) a close second. Dolpo's rain shadow keeps the trail trekkable in monsoon, but roads become landslide-prone, so we recommend the fly-in version for monsoon dates. Winter is feasible for cold-hardy trekkers.
Q: Which Bus do i take for Phoksundo lake trek from Kathmandu or Pokhara?
A: The Battalion Yatayat (also known as Battalion Express) operates direct night bus services from Kathmandu to Dunai (Dolpa), the gateway to Phoksundo Lake. You can book the bus visiting Gongabu buspark in Kathmandu, and ride it from Pokhara too but don't forget to book it in call or Bussewa in advance.
Call their counter at Gongabu buspark head office at-
9844946299/9862795544
[caption id="attachment_4827" align="alignnone" width="225"] Kathmandu to Dolpa Bus[/caption]
trek 
Dolpo trekking 
